Undisputed local excellence with Chef Dominique Lory
Chef Dominique Lory follows the footsteps of French-born, Monégasque chef Alain Ducasse, as the head chef of Monaco’s iconic three Michelin star restaurant, the Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse à l’Hôtel de Paris.
The Principality of Monaco has always attracted entrepreneurs, whose desires and ambitions drive them to achieve more to prove their commitment and excellence in their fields. A great example of this is Chef Alain Ducasse, one of the greatest chefs in the world, and mentor of Chef Dominique Lory.
Chef Ducasse and Chef Lory are the heart and soul of the prime jewel of Monaco’s gastronomic scenery, the Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse restaurant. Alain Ducasse is the only living chef in the world holding more than 20 Michelin stars, a true artisan of living and eating well. So it was natural for us to approach his head chef, Dominique Lory, and discover the man who maintains the legacy of the Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse restaurant. But before we do that, here is a quick history.
Alain Ducasse was born in Orthez in southwestern France and was educated on a farm in Castel-Sarrazin. He began an apprenticeship at the Pavillon Landais restaurant in Soustons and the Bordeaux hotel school.
How did later on Monaco and the French Riviera influence Alain Ducasse’s culinary style?
“Discovering this land was an essential moment in my life.
My love for this region is deep and carnal. I learned to know it, to tame it. It brought me its beautiful light and colours, and its enchanting landscapes. It revealed an endearing humanity of farmers and fishermen. From its abundant nature, it gave me produce from the sea and the land, beyond comparison. It whispered to me the age-old recipes of modest and generous women.
All of this, I tried to give back, with all my heart. This land that sings like the sun, inspires all my cooking. It draws from it all its strength and truth. Everything has changed. The setting and the menu – which has been deeply transformed.
Yet, nothing has really changed… The Riviera is still the prodigal inspiration of my cuisine.” – says Alain Ducasse.
On May 27, 1987, the late H.S.H. Prince Rainier III requested Alain Ducasse to take over the management of the kitchens at the Hôtel de Paris, the prestigious establishment owned by Monte Carlo SBM. As the new executive chef of the Hotel de Paris, Alain Ducasse’s assignment was to achieve three stars in the Michelin Guide for the hotel’s main restaurant. Thanks to his commitment and passion for his Mediterranean cuisine, and being inspired by excellence at the highest level, the Restaurant Louis XV run by Alain Ducasse was awarded its third Michelin star in 1990.
It is an impressive fact that the Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse is the first-ever hotel restaurant to be awarded three Michelin stars in the Michelin Guide. Alain Ducasse is only 33 years old and the restaurant has been open for 33 months.
This was the first step towards a gastronomical change in the Principality of Monaco. Alain Ducasse brought a culinary class to Monaco, and the bar has been rising ever since with other great gastronomical geniuses building on these foundations. One of the great ones, who represents the next generation of chefs is Chef Lory.
Chef Lory, when and why did you decide to be a chef?
“As far as I remember, I was six years old. Seeing my mother and my brother cook inspired me and led me to this vocation” – says Chef Lory.
Dominique Lory had a long journey before he settled in the heart of the Principality of Monaco. At the beginning of his career and with his newly acquired diploma in his pocket, the Angevin joined the ranks of restaurant Ladurée, on the Champs- Élysées in Paris, as demi-chef.
In December 1998, Lory meets Alain Ducasse who offers him a position within the new Spoon Food & Wine Paris as first commis de cuisine, beside chef Christophe Moret.
From March 2000 to January 2002, he is first commis de cuisine with Pierre Gagnaire, before leaving Paris. Alain Ducasse then sends him to Saint-Tropez to work at the restaurant Spoon at Byblos where he remains until October 2002 as second de cuisine.
Alain Ducasse then offers him the chance to join the ranks of the Le Louis XV in Monaco where he works for 4 years as chef de partie beside chef Franck Cerutti, who transmits his love of Mediterranean cuisine, generous, simple, and sincere.
In January 2007, you moved back to Paris as the sous-chef of Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée. Later on, your journey led you back to Monaco again. How would you compare Monaco’s culinary scenery to Paris?
“My different experiences between Monaco and Paris helped me to really understand Alain Ducasse’s philosophy: your cuisine is deeply inspired by the place you are. In Paris, I learned with Christophe Moret rigour and discipline as the Parisian competition is tough. In Monaco, Franck Cerutti shared his love for the Riviera and its beautiful produce. It is the cuisine of love and generosity” – says Chef Lory.
In 2011, Alain Ducasse promotes him to head chef at the Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse restaurant. Dominique is reunited with Franck Cerutti – named executive chef of all the restaurants in the Hotel de Paris, in 2008 – which ensures a smooth transition until 2013, when he is handed the keys to the restaurant.
The Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse is the crown jewel of the gastronomic scenery of the Principality of Monaco. What was the most memorable moment for you related to this restaurant?
“The Louis XV’s 25th anniversary was such an event… I was a chef there for one year only and was really impressed by this international celebration, gathering 240 chefs and more than 300 Michelin stars. They came from all around the world to celebrate together the legacy of this restaurant. That was a once-in-a-lifetime event, for sure” – remembers back Chef Lory.
The restaurant, located at the famous Hôtel de Paris, highlights the joyous lifestyle of the French Riviera, the „art de vivre“. In fact, all of the time-pieces are stopped at noon in the room as a reminder to stillness and to stop and savour every glorious mouthful of this delicate menu.
Alain Ducasse’s Mediterranean-inspired cuisine became his signature by the end of the 20th century and it still strikes a subtle balance between location, tradition, and innovation. He has always gathered women and men who share his values and help him to fulfill his mission as a cook: to glorify the authentic tastes of each product.
“For me, the cuisine brings together and expresses strong values: generosity, sharing, tolerance, open-mindedness” – declares Chef Ducasse.
There is no exception with the cuisine of the Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse à l’Hôtel de Paris which tells the story of the Riviera, now more than ever. Produce, flavours, colours, everything is there. Fish originates from local fishing, herbs, and vegetables from inland.
As Alain Ducasse says, “Before cooking comes Nature”.
Can people discover some of the early culinary recipes and inspirations on the menu?
“Certain Louis XV iconic recipes are still on the menu, namely the Provence garden vegetables, black truffle, offered to guests since May 27th, 1987” – explains Chef Lory.
Yet, on the same Mediterranean partition, the lyrics have been completely rewritten. The menu, now created jointly by chef Dominique Lory and Alain Ducasse asserts itself with the contemporary and youth. Vigorous jus, intense broths, fresh condiments, they all primarily reveal the exactitude and precision of taste. A contemporary and essential description.
The chefs wish to pay tribute to several small producers with whom they work. They are grateful for the quality of their products, their passion, and the respect for the planet that they have demonstrated.
Vivacity
Iodine flavours of shellfish (cockles, smooth clams, Venus clams, and oysters), sharp touches from the grapefruit that accompanies the Mediterranean sea bass, and even bitterness of the salad served beside the green peas risotto: flavours are lively and honest. There is joy in this interpretation of the Riviera.
Lightness
Today’s cuisine must be light, even more so when on the Riviera. For this, Provence garden vegetables, black truffle, green steamed asparagus, and seasonal vegetables Cookpot confer a botanical tone to the menu. The preparations highlight jus and broths, which concentrate the flavours.
Freshness
To add freshness, the meal is punctuated by a vegetal pause. After the main course, the guest is invited to enjoy a green apple/sorrel granité.
Authenticity
Regional authenticity and essential Riviera flavours express themselves without compromise in the cuisine of Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse à l’Hôtel de Paris.
The humble chickpea finds its place, as does the Roquebrune-Cap-Martin maquis myrtle. However, the chef, hailing from the southwest of France, sources his lamb from the Pyrenees and his poultry from the Landes.
Respect
When using such stunning produce, everything is good. Peapods are centrifuged to achieve a juice that will moisten the Cookpot vegetables. Thinly sliced artichoke leaves render a delicate broth. Pintadon (baby guineafowl, to use Alain Chapel’s terminology) offal will be used as stuffing for the fondant potatoes that accompany the poultry.
Respect for nature is expressed by every attention of the Chef paying tribute to the nobility of the produce, throughout the process.
Terroir
Sowing wheat in a truffle field was one of Cahors resident Patrick Duler’s ideas. At the restaurant Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse à l’Hôtel de Paris, guests can sample this unique bread made from truffle wheat. Without omitting the traditional baguette, the olive or bacon fougasse, buckwheat bread, or stone-ground flour bread.
What is the source of your gastronomical inspiration when it comes to new recipes?
“I am constantly inspired by the seasons, markets, and producers I meet regularly. They have a key role in the creation of new recipes” – says Chef Lory.
Why is it important for you to work with local producers?
“As Alain Ducasse says, « Before cooking there is Nature ». When you cook something, you create a dish, it is essential to know the sourcing of your produce. Where are they cultivated? How are they bred? I wish to pay tribute to those producers with whom we work day after day. I am grateful for the quality of their products, their passion, and the respect for the planet that they have demonstrated. Each of them has a story to tell and it is important to know it because this is the story we will, in turn, convey to our guests” – tells us Chef Lory.
The cuisine of the Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse restaurant brings together tradition and modernity, excellence and respect for the product. As a chef, Alain Ducasse has achieved global recognition for never settling for second-best.
When you invent a new recipe, do you do it in collaboration with your team? Or do you perfect it first yourself before presenting it to Alain Ducasse?
“It is a teamwork. With Alain Ducasse, we give the vision to the kitchen team and encourage them to create. We try, we adjust, we try again. Then, we share our creation with Claire Sonnet, the restaurant manager. She is the one who will suggest the dish to our guests, so her opinion is major. Noël Bajor, the chef Sommelier helps us to find the perfect wine pairing. When we all agree, we propose the dish to chef Ducasse who has the final cut” – declares Chef Lory.
It is amazing to experience the concept of amuse-bouche at Louis XV. The term is French and literally means “mouth amuser”.
Generally speaking, the amuse-bouches are different from appetizers in that they are not ordered from a menu by patrons but are served free and according to the chef’s selection alone. These are served both to prepare the guest for the meal and to offer a glimpse of the chef’s style.
The amuse-bouche opening the meal and the sweets that end it subtly respond to each other. A perfect Mediterranean example is when the former is with marine tones, the latter with fresh citrus notes. Fish and citrus, two emblematic Riviera products.
Could you please describe to us a typical amuse-bouche experience at Louis XV?
“The amuse-bouche is a surprising moment. It is composed of five distinctive lightly marinated fish bites, each accompanied by its own condiment: gurnard and celery, capon and fennel, bonito and olive, mackerel and lemon, cuttlefish, and capers. They are then placed on a specially designed copper plate containing pebbles heated to 150 degrees.
The dish arrives at the table covered by a glass dome. The waiter lifts it, pours a lemon broth over the bites, and immediately closes the lid.
One hears the crackling of the broth as it is poured on the scalding stones; one sees the steam fill the dome.
After a few seconds, the waiter lifts the bell and the guests help themselves to the bites using long-handled titanium forks designed by Paulo Vale.
The sweets served following the meal play on citrus fruit flavours. “Berlingot” filled with bergamot-hazelnut, Limoncello liquor “pâte de fruit”, confit lemon with lime and Timut pepper, whole candied tangerine with a tangerine juice reduction, kumquat with limequat ginger Marmalade.
A little later in the season, red fruit will be added.”
One can easily see why Chef Ducasse is the world’s most renowned chef and the record holder of Michelin stars. Yet, the fireworks of harmony do not stop at the plates. As head chef Dominique Lory mentioned, it is a team effort where all the team members play a significant role in the success of the Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse.
Noël Bajor, head sommelier at Le Louis XV, created a wine list imbued with the immense wealth of one of the most beautiful cellars in the world and the most beautiful regional products of the Riviera. The attention paid to the guest permutes into a subtle and demanding art.
The service ballet, impeccably set by Claire Sonnet, restaurant manager, which echoes the honesty felt in the cuisine – stretches a long way. Claire Sonnet encourages members of her team to freely express themselves. Certainly, humanity is an essential ingredient to the guest’s delight.
The sincerity with which the service is accomplished transforms a dinner at Le Louis XV – Alain Ducasse à l’Hôtel de Paris into an experience, leaving the clients with treasured memories. Even the interior subtly evokes the Riviera’s Art de Vivre. A rigorous and yet infinitely warm special organisation. The contemporary twist harmonizes with Alain Ducasse’s cuisine.
Based on your opinion, what makes someone become a great chef?
“The first thing to be good at what you do is to be passionate. I think it is key. To be a great chef is a constant quest. You must be very attentive: to your guests, your producers, your team. Do not be afraid to challenge yourself every day, look at things in a new light and move on. It also requires to be meticulous to maintain the quality and regularity on a daily basis” – says Chef Lory.
What would your message to the future generation of chefs be?
“Be curious, always. And do not count your time because this job will reward you a hundredfold.”
Do you cook at home?
“Yes, I do! Even if I do not eat there very often, I love to prepare dishes for my family. Cooking is sharing. For me, the best moments are those spent around a table with people you love.”
What’s your favourite dish?
“Vegetable dishes are my favourite and I also love produce cooked on the barbecue.”
What do you think about the traditional Monégasque dishes?
“They are colourful, so tasty, and full of history.”
How do you see 2021 and in general the future of the gastronomic scenery of the Principality of Monaco?
“I am an eternal optimist” – says Cher Lory. – “2021 will be a beautiful year with a progressive recovery of the economy.”
What would your recommended dish be from the Spring 2021 menu for those who experience the Louis XV restaurant for the first time?
“I would recommend green asparagus or green peas. It is the perfect period to enjoy them.”
